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I broke my road bike (again)

Black bicycle wheel rim, with silver hairline cracks around the spoke hole.
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Black bicycle wheel rim, with silver hairline cracks around the spoke hole.
Last week was rough for my road bike. Most likely, none of the problems were things that happened recently, just issues uncovered doing routine maintenance. The drama started with the roasted/warped rotor I posed a few days ago (https://mltshp.com/p/1ROVW), discovered while adjusting the brakes. That needed replacement, and I decided to also swap the pads and worn rear tire while the bike was down for service. Following my usual buy local philosophy, I spent a good chunk of Saturday going to various bike shops around Columbus, getting everything needed.

As I went to swap the tire, I noticed a few suspicious "scratches" around a few of the spoke holes. Then a bunch more. Going around the wheel, the rim was cracked at 10 of the 32 spoke holes. I've read it's probably fine to keep riding it (and who knows how long this has been an issue) - but I don't trust it, and best case I'm walking home if the wheel fails catastrophically. The only consolation is that the OEM wheel wasn't all that great to begin with. It's gone out of true before, has a small hop in it, and I noticed some rumble from the sealed bearings when I spun it.

Sourcing a new wheel ended up being a challenge. The Salsa Vaya has a 135mm quick release rear (w/thru axle front), and mine has a 10-speed HG cassette. Both are dated standards, and I didn't want to invest much in a wheel that would only work with this specific bike and drivetrain - not that I found one. Briefly, I considered replacing the bike - but the Vaya seems to still be universally loved, and it's perfect for how I use it. After a few days of updating my knowledgebase of hub standards, I found a wheel built with the popular DT Swiss 350 hub, which can easily be converted. It does have the HG freehub body, but comes with a 142mm thru axle. I'll need t swap the endcaps to convert it to QR right from the start, but I'll at least have the parts to swap back if I ever do get a new bike. The biggest value, since I think this bike is a keeper, is the ability to potentially swap the freehub to something more modern when my 3500-mile drivetrain wears out. I ordered the wheel from my friend's shop yesterday, hoping to get the bike up and running this weekend.
8 hours ago

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wjcstp pro 8 hours ago
I think replacing the wheel (or at least the rim) is the right call, i wouldn't want to put many miles on that. What rim is on your new wheel? Hopefully something a bit beefier.

All of my bikes are built around some form of "obsolete" tech as far as the bike industry goes, that's partly why i've built a handful of wheels myself, too hard to find what i wanted.
cwhartman pro 7 hours ago
@wjcstp New rim is a DT R470db, which has reputation for durability from what I've read. OEM was a WTB i19, which looks to have a reputation for cracking at the spoke holes.

I somehow never learned to build wheels, or really even true them. I should try learning that sometime.

It always makes me nervous I'm going to get stuck tracking down used, NOS, or low-end parts that followed an old standard when something breaks. My Bontrager has a 1" treadless steerer, I'm stuck with to fork it has. My 2022 Yeti has a derailleur hanger, but most mid to high-end MTB groups have moved to UDH. There is a third-party adapter out there for this bike, I'm tempted to grab one (while they are still available) for when it wares out.
samh pro 6 hours ago
Grrr!
wjcstp pro 5 hours ago
@cwhartman I still have a '90s Bridgestone MB4 that stripped out the fork threads a while back, but it's always been rigid, not too hard to find decent rigid replacement forks. I'm guessing that's not the case for suspension forks.

Wheelbuilding isn't the cheap way to get a wheel, but it's fun. I raced CX for years on wheels i built with LX/XT hubs and Velocity rims, they barely ever needed truing.
cwhartman pro 2 hours ago
@wjcstp I always loved the Bridgestones back in the day.

You are correct, 1" steerer suspension forks pretty much stopped being made a few years after my frame. Being threadless (though I could always replace the headset and stem) is even more rare. I'd love to just throw a rigid fork on it, but it was made for suspension, so most older forks would make the geometry even steeper than it already is.

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